Twin-lead fold-up Jpole antenna

[va3css]

The great Ed Humphries, N5RCK, has some good plans for a fold-up Jpole antenna using nothing more than that flat, twin-lead, 300-ohm "TV antenna" wire.

Here they are:

The following is a description of a J-Pole antenna made from 300 ohm
TV twin-lead. They have quite a few advantages which include improved
performance for HTs, portability, and low cost.

| | do not short this end.
| | (when trimming for vswr, cut both sides)
| |
| |
| |
3/4 | | Technically-speaking, this is a 1/2
wave | | wave end-fed antenna with a 1/4 wave
| | matching section.
| |
| 1/4" gap
| | (trim for vswr _below_ gap)
| | 1/4
| | wave
| |
coax ctr conductor=>* *<= coax shield
1 1/4"-| |
-*- solder the twin leads together at bottom

For a center frequency of 146 MHz:
1. Start with @54" of TV twin lead (flat, NOT foam core)
2. Strip 1/2" of insulation at bottom and solder wires together.
3. Measure 1 1/4" from soldered wires and strip insulation on both
sides. This is the solder point for a coax feedline.
4. Measure 16 3/4" from coax shield solder point and cut out 1/4" notch.
5. Measure 50 1/3" from coax center conductor solder point and trim
off twin lead at that point.
6. Feed with a length of RG58U coax. Tape coax at feedpoint to the
twin lead for strength and seal coax for weather protection.

To get the best possible match, in step three above simply MARK the
"solder points" and measure from the mark for step 4 and 5. Now solder
straight pins to your conductor and your shield. Insert the pins at
the marked point and test for VSWR at the design frequency (146MHz).
If necessary, probe up or down till you reach 1:1 (close as possible).
Solder at the best points. To try this, you may want to start with
the twin lead a little long and trim down to resonant length - note:
you'll need to trim in a 3:1 ratio to maintain the 3/4 to 1/4 wave.

It has been noted that this design can lead to rf coupling onto the
feedline. To avoid, put ferrite beads on the coax at the feedpoint,
or use 3-5 turns of coax (1"-2") taped together at the feedpoint.

You may attach an alligator clip to the plastic on the top of
the antenna in order to easily hang it. Alternately, punch a
hole near the top and use a length of fishing line to hang.

This design appears on many BBSs, in club newsletters, and in books;
the earliest reference that I know of is a Jan. 1984 D.A.R.C. antenna
article by James Burks, KA5QYV. This antenna is relatively broad-banded
and will be more than adequate if simply built as noted in steps above.

FYI, the 1/4 wave sections for other center frequencies are:
144 MHz =17 inches, 145 =16.88, 146 =16.75, 147 =16.65, 148 =16.54

I usually just go ahead and solder the coax in place and trim
down to as close to 1:1 vswr as I can get. I use the MFJ vhf
antenna analyzer and a frequency counter then afterwards test
with a radio and in-line swr/power meter. When done, the antenna
should also present 1:1.2-3 vswr in the center of 444MHz band as
well (demonstrated on my dual-band meter and Alinco DJ-580).

--
Ed Humphries Texas Instruments, Inc. 512-250-6894
N5RCK Internet [e-mail]

If you plan to use it for an HT, slip by your local computer shop and pick up a twist-on BNC connector for the end of the coax - spare yourself an adapter.

These plans also make this antenna work for the 70cm band, as my MFJ-269 proves.